At Allante Source we have new parts, used parts, rebuilt parts, reproduction parts, body parts, technical help, ABS troubleshooting, stereo components, electronics repair, literature, memorabilia, buy or sell or swap. We repair Allantes, all years and models. Your source for all your Allante needs!

1142 A 53rd Court North

West Palm Beach, FL 33407

Phone: 561-844-3938

Fax: 561-844-3922

   ABS Information

Bose Speakers

   Pull Down Motors

Bose Speaker Amplifiers

Used on 1987 through 1992 Allantes

The "radio" on 1987 to 1992 Allantes is a combionation of components located in different places on the car:


  • The control head is located in the Driver Information Center panel. There is additional interface through the rear circuit board in the DIC panel.
  • The radio receiver is located behind the glovebox.
  • There are four speaker amplifiers: one in the front lower corner of each door, one over the battery, and one behind the driver seat opposite the one over the battery.
  • The automatic antenna.
  • The Bose speaker amp relay, located in front of the antenna.


In addition to these components, the 1987 through 1989 Allantes have a cassette player in the DIC panel which is an integral part of the stereo system. 1990 through 1992 Allantes also have a CD player. Even though all the DIC panels are the same size across all Allante' years, it is not possible to install a later panel with CD player into the earlier Allantes and make it work.


It will physically fit, but the car will be in a continual "SYSTEM FAULT" condition since the serial data line communication will be disrupted. Wiring is different and embedded software is different. Allantesource can provide whatever parts you need to restore your stereo system to like-new condition. We carry rebuilt antennas, rebuilt radio receivers, rebuilt speaker amplifiers, rebuilt CD players, and rebuilt cassette players. Usually we have all of these items in satock on an exchange basis. If we run out, there will be a short wait, or you can send in your parts for rebuilding.


If you need help diagnosing a problem with your stereo system, we will be glad to help. You can phone us a 561-844-3938 or e-mail us at


Replacing your BOSE SPEAKER AMPS


A significant number of Bose speaker/amps in Allantes fail. 1991’s and 1992’s seem to be the affected the most, but over time the earlier years have been catching up. As the amplifiers are failing, they tend to emit an intermittent screeching sound, which gets progressively worse. It is best not to use the radio or tape or CD players once the screeching begins, since this can cause more expensive problems to occur elsewhere in your sound system. Rather than replacing the speaker/amps with new units, it is much less expensive to have them rebuilt. Also, this rebuilding should be a lifetime repair. Rebuilt speaker amps are available from on an exchange basis at about ¼ the cost of new replacements. It is best to replace all four units at the same time, as the remaining units will fail at an accelerated rate once any of them have been rebuilt. But you can replace them one at a time if you wish. If any amps are making weird noises, or are not playing, they should be unplugged right away. To order, please e-mail for information. Include the year of your Allante'. Rebuilt Bose speaker amps are available for 1987-1988 Allantes, 1989-1990 Allantes, and 1991-1992 Allantes. The 1993 Allantes do not use these components. Simply replacing the speakers with aftermarket speakers can NEVER fix an Allante' stereo problem. Allante' speakers have different impedance than other automotive speakers. If old speakers are removed and discarded, new speakers will be required. This drives up the cost of the repair.


Rear speaker amp replacement


Removing the rear speaker/amplifiers is very easy. The right rear is behind the battery cover. Fold down the partition between the trunk and the passenger compartment. Slide out the battery cover. Slide out a small piece of trim behind the battery cover, which may have one retaining screw in the bottom corner. Then disconnect the plug, and remove the four screws holding the speaker. To install the rebuilt speaker amp, just reverse these simple steps if you have the complete enclosure. If you have just the amp, your old unit will need to be disassembled, and the rebuilt amp board installed into your old housing. The left side speaker is behind the trim panel on the other side of the rear deck. The trim panel slides out in much the same way as the right side, although on 1990.5 and up models you have a little bit of a struggle to clear the soft top switch panel. Insert a screwdriver behind the switch panel, and gently pry the lip of the trim panel out from behind the switch panel. Then there is another trim piece behind it that must be removed to gain access to the rear mounting screws, just as on the right side. It is ALWAYS a good idea to check each amp for proper operation right after it is plugged in. It does not matter if any or all are plugged in at any given time. No harm will be done to the stereo system.


Front speaker amp replacement


Removing the two front speakers from the doors does not require any special tools, and is not that difficult. Probably the hardest part of the job is getting the door panel back together properly with everything hooked up correctly. Pay special attention to the door lock and door handle linkage as you are removing it. Otherwise, the project is not difficult.To remove the lower portion of the door panels, first remove the two screws in the armrest grip. These are Phillips head screws. One way is to use a stubby screwdriver to remove them, since the top of the upper door panel tapers in, preventing you from getting a straight shot into the screw head with a standard length screw driver. The best method is to use the proper size Phillips bit from a screwdriver with interchangeable bits, inserted into a ¼" hex socket and ¼" drive ratchet. This provides plenty of torque. There are two possible problems here to avoid. First, the screw heads could be filled with foreign matter. Second, if you have had significant water leaks over a long time, these screws could be rusted in. Take special care to clean out the slots and not strip the heads. If you use the ¼" drive ratchet, make sure you stay straight and keep adequate downward pressure on the ratchet. This is a little bit difficult since you are right up against the door panel. Once the two retaining screws have been removed, the armrest can be rotated up and out of the slots that hold it. Lift up the edge by the door panel, and push the armrest toward the door to allow the plastic tabs on the bottom to come out of the slots underneath. Once the armrest is removed, there are 4 screws holding the armrest bracket to be removed: two going down and two going into the door panel. On later Allante’s, the express down relay is mounted underneath, and must be unplugged. There is a plastic retaining tab that must be removed before the electrical connector can be disconnected. Once the bracket has been removed, push up or pry up the rear of the power window switch. Carefully pull the wiring up out of the mounting hole. If the switch case separates, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO LET THE SWITCH CASE SEPARATE. The are four internal contacts inside that can fall out if the switch comes apart. The driver's door has two connectors on the back of the switch to unplug, then three connectors about 8" away in the wiring. If the switch has never been removed before, there will be a cable tie holding thw wires to thje door panel. This tie must be cut before before the connectors can be unsnapped. Next pull the interior door handle to the "open door" position to gain access to the two screws behind the handle, and remove them. Looking down inside the switch hole, you will see the door handle linkage. There is a green plastic clip that holds the linkage to the door handle. The clip must be rotated more than 90 degrees to unclip it from where it connects around the linkage, then the end of the link will lift up from the door handle, and the door handle will come free.Next, there are three screws on the very bottom of the door panel that must be removed. You have to get down very low and look up to see them. Two are in the vinyl-coated section of the panel, and one is in the carpeted section. Once these three screws have been removed, the panel will be loose. Move the door lock paddle to the locked position. Pull out the bottom of the panel, then pull out then down on the to to remove the clips from behind the upper door panel. Hold the panel, and disconnect the power door lock linkage. This has the same type of connector as the door handle. Rotate the green plastic clip 90 degrees to unclip from around the linkage, then pull the end of the linkage free. On the driver’s door panel, the connector for the power mirror adjustment switch on 1990-1992 models must also be unplugged. The door panel can then be set aside.The speaker/amps are located in the front corner of each of the doors. Remove the four screws holding the rear retaining bracket. Then there are one nut and one screw to remove on the front of the speaker amp, and the unit will be free. To find them, you will need to push the water deflector out of the way on the edge of the speaker amp closest to the door pillar. Disconnect the electrical connector, and remove the unit from the vehicle. Remove the two nuts holding the rear mounting bracket to the speaker. To reinstall the rebuilt speaker amp, just reverse these steps.When reinstalling the door panel, pay special attention to the power door lock linkage. This passes through a cut-out in the water deflector, and must move freely in order for the power door locks to work properly. It is difficult to reconnect the linkage with the panel mounted to the door. I support the panel, reconnect the linkage, and then mount the panel back on the door. The door handle can also be a struggle. There is a floating nut plate where the two screws attach that needs to be immobilized. Others have suggested tips such as putty or tape to do this. Putty is messy and tape doesn’t allow movement. The best way is to take the rounded end of a ballpeen hammer, with the bracket removed from the speaker amp enclosure, gently tap in the sheet metal pocket to create a drag on the nut plate. The plate still needs to move when prying it for final location, but it needs to stay where you put it. Don’t overdo the drag. Create just enough to hold it in place. Center the tapped holes in the nut plate with the punched holes in the door. That way, the screws will go right in. Just make sure not to cross thread them. They have a very fine thread. When pushing the window switch wires back into the door after reconnecting the switch, make sure you keep them away from the power door lock linkage. They can cause the door locks to malfunction by placing a drag on the linkage. Otherwise, reassembly is pretty straightforward. If you have any specific questions or problems, you can email them to


CD and cassette player replacement


The DIC combo panel must be removed from the car to remove either the CD or the cassette players. This procedure covers the combo panels in 1990 through 1993 Allante'. The procedure is about the same but simpler for 1987 through 1989 models. To remove the DIC, first disconnect the negative battery terminal. The battery is located behind the removable panel on the right side of the area behind the passenger seat. Next, remove the louver on the AC vent on top of the DIC. Insert a small screwdriver on either side between the louver and frame, and gently pry the louver out. There are spring mounting clips on each side. Once you have moved the louver far enough to clear the clip, it will pop right out. Behind the louver you will see two screws in the top of the case. Remove these two screws.


Insert one finger inside the cassette door, and try to pull the DIC panel out. If it slides out at this point, it means the panel was previously removed, and the bottom screws not reinstalled. If it slides out, you will have a lot less work to do. You can skip down to the step in which the DIC slides out. We do not reinstall bottom screws to simplify DIC removal in the future.


Otherwise, several under dash components must be removed from the driver’s side only. The first is the left side sound insulator, which surrounds the brake pedal. Remove the five screws and two retaining nuts that secure this panel. Remove the courtesy light from the sound insulator by pressing on the plastic clips, and then remove the wires from the light assembly. Next remove the trim panels at both sides under the sound insulator. There is one screw holding each piece. The following applies to 1990 through 1993 Allantes. 1987-89 is somewhat easier. You can get at the bottom bolts much more easily on the earlier Allantes.

Remove the two screws holding the hood release lever, and let it rest on the floor. Remove the knee booster panel from underneath the steering column by removing the two screws and four bolts that secure it to the car.  Next, remove the two bolts holding the bracket to which the right side of the knee bolster was attached. You will see the bottom of the DIC once this bracket is removed. There is a provision for two bolts to hold the bottom of the DIC, although I have only found one in some of the panels I have removed. The left one is easy to remove. The right one, if installed, requires a long handle 10 mm wrench and quite a bit of patience. Or, you can remove the CPS and the BCM, and then have easy access. There is an 8mm screw holding both these modules in, and 10 mm nuts on top to loosen. Then unplug them and remove.


Once the bottom bolts are removed, the DIC will slide out. Move the gear shift lever rearward as needed, and pull the DIC out far enough to access the electrical connections on back, then unclip the connectors.


To remove the CD player, the back of the DIC has a hinged cover. Remove the screws as needed to open the cover, then remove the four screws ( 2 on each side) that hold in the CD player to the frame. Once the CD player is loose, move it slightly to gain better access to the two electrical connectors in the back of the CD, and then disconnect them. The CD player will then slide out of the housing. The same procedure applies top 1990 through 1993 cassette players. Removing 1987 through 1989 cassette players is more difficult. Remove a small rectangular snap-in panel from the door. Then remove the door. There is a black plate behind the door with two small screws that must be removed. Then the rear door of the DIC is opened and other attaching screws are removed, and the cassette player will slide out.


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